More Montana, Madison R. Valley, Gallatin N.F., Hebgen Lake

Bannock, MT Territory's First Capitol, 1864-1866, Now a State Park

Montana: Bitterroot Valley, First Continental Divide Pass, High Lonesome Valleys

Day 13-14, Lochsa River and Clearwater NF, Lolo Pass, Missoula and the Half Way Point

Left rather seedy campground on Lochsa R in Lowell ID after a tough night of sleep as contract road crews working on Rte 12 stayed up late partying. Long steady climb up the Lochsa canyon surrounded by wilderness except for this one road linking central ID with MT. The mile markers seemed to pass slowly. We finally made it to Powell at the foot of the Lolo Pass climb after 66 miles without passing a single store. We wolfed great sandwiches at Lochsa Lodge (a beautiful timber lodge with at least a dozen assorted dead animals on display on the walls: cougars, bighorn sheep, grizzly and black bears, elk etc. Idahoans are very proud of their hunting conquests). It was after 5 PM and dusk was setting in as we slogged up the climb to Lolo Pass, reaching the summit as darkness set in. A quick 8 mile drop from the summit had us in Lolo Hot Springs at another seedy RV joint for transient campers.

Next morning a quick downhill ride into Missoula and the halfway point of the trip. Much to Bob's dismay the cyclometer recorded exactly 999 miles. We met up with Bob's longtime friend Mike who graciously taxied us around Missoula, thick with alumni in town for the University of Montana's (you guessed it, the Grizzlies) first home football game. Much to my dismay Adventure Cycling's world headquarters were close, so no luck getting the requisite polaroid portrait, long a tradition of bike tourers passing through. I said goodbye to Bob, a great traveling partner, and moteled it at the local Days Inn, ready to begin the 2nd half of the trip.

Days 11-12, Salmon River Canyon, Idaho High Country, Whitebird Pass

Left Council ID and began a slow climb up the Weiser River valley through the Payette National Forest. Beautiful mixed stands of softwood following a gorgeous high river valley. Lunch in New Meadows, a true timber town, where we had a brief window of internet service (central ID is otherwise devoid of modern telecommunications). Then commenced the most amazing ride as we headed on a long downhill into the Little Salmon and Salmon River valleys, aided by strong tailwinds. We finished the day with 92 miles under our belt in a little town called Whitebird, so named for a Nez Perce Chief who kicked the US Calvalry's ass in 1877.

Following morning commenced the climb to Whitebird Pass on old Route 95, an 11 mile 2200' climb following an incredible series of switchbacks I tried to capture on film but unsuccessfully. We both got our ass whooped on that hill. I kept singing the Jefferson Airplane tune 'Whitebird': by the 10th switchback I wanted to kill myself to rid the tune from my head. this is what happens on mind-numbingly long climbs.

But with every climb comes a long downhill which brought us into Grangeville, another timber/farming community. Quick lunch and we headed out of town with our first strong headwind of the trip. By 3:30 we had only covered 45 miles and needed to make many more to keep on track. Luck was on our side as we turned the corner ont eh Clearwater River in Kooksia and found the wind at our back for another 25 miles to Lowell ID on the banks of the Lochsa River, deep in the Clearwater National Forest. Camped in an RV park full of Idaho road crews working on Route 12, reveling deep into the night following the Boise State win over the Oregon Ducks in football. We got little sleep. Those boys know how to party.

Days 9-10 Eastern Oregon, Blue Mountains

We left Brad, Phil and Charlie at Austin Junction and proceeded deep into the Blue Mountains and Malheur National Forest. Three big climbs and a long drop brought us into Baker City, the "capital" of northeastern OR. Next morning got a late jump and got a few things at a local bike shop, including a new saddle to see if I could find a solution to my ass fatigue. Phil coined the term "between ass and Zen" to describe the relief one feels when one dismounts after a lengthy time on the saddle' an apt term that I continue to use. About noon we headed east to a high pass where the road crosses original tracks of the Oregon Trail, ca. 1862 or thereabouts. We then began a long descent into Hells Canyon, pulling into Halfway OR just before dusk.

Early rise the next morning took us on a long downhill canyon ride in beautiful morning sunshine and cool temps before we hit the bottom of Hells Canyon and the Snake River. By 2 PM it was 100 degrees F and we commenced a long ride up and out of the canyon with a driving headwind. Closest we came to "total despair" so far on the trip. We were both glad to hit the summit and cooler temps, and finish the day's ride into Council ID.

Eastern Oregon, Oregon Trail, Hells And Salmon River Canyons, Whitebird Switchbacks, Cow Country Idaho, Clearwater and Lochsa River Valleys, Lolo Pass