Days 22-24, Headwinds and High Lonesome Wyoming

Now into the depths of Wyoming, away from the parks, and away from the tourists. My ride day 22 consisted of a long climb to the top of Togwatee Pass (another continental divide crossing) in the Shoshone National Forest, with really outstanding geologic formations at and around the summit. I didn’t really get much of a chance to enjoy them because I was met with stiff headwinds approaching the pass that persisted for the following three days.

What was supposed to be a blissful 25 mile downhill from the pass through the headwater valley of the Wind River was instead a mind-numbing slog of hard head- and side-winds. Arrived Dubois WY absolutely exhausted.

The next day had some nice red rock canyon scenery and them mostly sagebrush desert that Wyoming is famous for and the reason no one of any sanity lives in most of the state. The winds kicked in around 10 AM and persisted all the way to Lander. The Wind River Range flanks the valley to the west, and looks like an incredible wild place that I would like to explore some time. Famous for healthy Bighorn Sheep populations…..

Lander is a really nice town. Very bike friendly – they let bikers camp in the city park on lush green grass under enormous venerable old cottonwoods. They let bikers shower at the Junior High and even indulge in a Jacuzzi if so inclined. That night gale force winds blew through a town, sounding like a freight train through the cottonwoods with each gust. Other campers with “house tents” battled the winds all night. I was well staked down and didn’t have a problem – thanks for the one man Phil.

Lander to Rawlins WY is a 124 miles of a whole lotta nuthin’. The only people on the road are oil and gas trucks out working Wyoming fossil energy riches – about the only thing supporting people in the backcountry, and just barely. Most of Wyoming has little redeeming value, and I was passing through the heart of it. I had a foreboding feeling that this would not be a good day, and sure enough, around 10 AM brutal headwinds kicked in and played havoc on my mental state – exacerbated by long straight stretches of nothing but sagebrush where you become fixated on how little progress you are making. I reached “Jeffrey City” in hopes I could get water and food, and found everything boarded up and closed. Another 60 plus miles of wind and nothing to Rawlins – I decided to cheat. I hung out a piece of cardboard with Rawlins scratched on it, and got a ride in 15 minutes by a good Samaritan from Lander, Drew Dierker – Drew if you’re reading this thanks again buddy, you saved me – anytime you need a place to stay in NH you know who to call. I got to Rawlins and felt a great weight off my shoulders – and glad I had taken the ride because the alleged stores and water at both Muddy Gap and Lamont were both closed as well. This stretch is also notorious for no shoulders and oil/gas workers on the roads who have a reputation for taking a run at bikers, or so I am told. I was glad to get through it.

Cheating gave me a leg up on the trip and will allow me to enjoy the last four days without feeling like I’m constantly pressing to get the miles in. On to Colorado…….